Thursday, October 25, 2007

200+ km: Sand, Cobblestone, and once in awhile, Pavement

Still in Bolivia, we´re at the very precipice of Argentina. A border town is much the same across nations. If I´d ever been to Texas, I´d surmise that the Villazon - La Quiaca relationship, where I am, is a smaller version of El Paso - Ciudad Juarez. There´s even a special bridge where certified carriers, some old women and some teenage boys, tote heavy packages in a binge of free trade. It was tough to watch. But nevermind that. Getting here was far more intersting. We alternated days between a heavy 200 km stint or a light one-hundred km day, and nights between cushy accomodations or camping in some of the most unforgiving hinterland I have ever laid eyes on. On the longer days, the thirsty bikes are fed fuel in mid-journey by a untrusting 10-year old armed with a pail and a funnel. This has happened three times already. In between all this thankless terrain were some hotsprings, except the thing was the size of a pond and the temperature of a hot tub. Diving down upped it to a hot shower. The bottom must have been scalding. Descending southward, remember, we´re still over 10,000 ft high, the air thickens and the landscape becomes far less forboding. Even intriguing: Bolivia has been swell and, at times, magical. I once wondered aloud about wanting some ice cream and, sure enough, around the next corner was a little old man dishing my wish out for a nominal pittance. It´s time to change time zones, swap from the poorest South American country into the richest, and continue on into hopes of finding both the world´s best steak and a polo match.

Monday, October 22, 2007

Should Have Stocked Up

UYUNI, Bolivia -- We`re in a frontier town, plain and simple. 150 years ago, the Presidente founded it for military purposes as an outpost replete with broad promenades, a clock tower, and dust everywhere. With one hundred miles until anywhere, it`s got some natural fortification: It skirts the world`s biggest salt plane. Over a ragged earthen road, we went into less than a mile into what may as well be the surface of the moon. You could feel the white glare, similar to snow burn, rippling off a white sodium surface that stretched for miles as far as I could see. No buildings, no vehicles, no vegetation, nothing . . . just this girl mining a fortune. Then came a saltball fight and salt angels. The usual.